Trunk release cables may become jammed, rusted, stuck, or snapped with age, leaving you unable to open the trunk. Yes, replacing a trunk release solenoid is quite straightforward. You can just open the trunk, unbolt and remove the solenoid cover, unbolt the solenoid, disconnect the wiring, and pull it out. Then you can reverse the above steps to install the new one.
The steps are the same for a trunk pull down motor. You may be wondering, though, how do you get the trunk open to work on it? Well, you may still be able to open it with your key. If not, you may be able to use the emergency trunk release.
There is a glow in the dark, manual trunk release handle inside your trunk so that you can escape if you are ever kidnapped.
If your back seats fold down, you can access the emergency handle and open the trunk that way. Trunk release cables can be more difficult to replace. You need to route them the length of the vehicle behind several body panels. Doing so will take many steps and a great deal of patience. This part will only fit a vehicle with these options. If your vehicle isn't listed, close the window to return to search. Clear vehicle X.
Year Make Model. This photo of the bracket shows the degree angle that I had to grind on the bracket to achieve a perpendicular mounting. I did it with a grinder and files; a milling machine would make the process easier and more precise. A slot had to be cut for the latch to protrude through. Marker was used to indicate the cut lines. Holes were drilled at the end of the cutout to serve as starting points for a saw or the cutoff tool that was used.
We used an air-powered cutoff tool to cut both sides of the slot. Jigsaw would also work if that is all you have. Cutting of hole was completed with a small hacksaw designed to hold a blade for this type application. File is used to finish shaping the opening. Better to make the opening a little undersized and fine-tune it later. Latch was test-fit in the opening to determine the amount that it was to protrude through the opening. Measurements were marked on the rear mounting face and marked for location of the mounting holes.
Holes were drilled to accommodate mounting of the latch. Latch is held in place by wide based bolts that spread the load on the surface of the sheetmetal similar to that of a flat washer. Small ridges in mating face act like lock washers, without digging into the sheetmetal.
This is the finished latch shown in the unlatched position. Latch shown in the latched position. Bottom of opening had to be positioned above the line of the threshold so that the bar mounted on the deck lid could be fully engaged. View from below shows how the bracket bolted to the panel and allowed the actuating lever to have clearance for latching and unlatching. Cable or solenoid power will attach here. Striker bar half of the latch mechanism attaches to the underside of the deck lid.
Mounting holes in the deck lid striker bar can be slotted to allow for any fine-tuning of the engagement between the two pieces.
A latch assembly from a donor car will work fine for most early car applications. Buying one from an aftermarket hot rod parts supplier is also a good alternative. Either one will require the fabrication of some kind of mounting bracket and the cutting of access for it. A release cable or electric-powered solenoid kit can be used to actuate the latch mechanism. Techniques used in this project would be similar to those used to fabricate many other types of brackets in the process of building a hot rod.
VIP Sponsors. Heat was applied to the backside of the hacksaw cut and the bracket bent to match the angle on the latch. Hole was enlarged to allow latching lever to move through its full range of motion.
Edges are then ground to match the contours of the latch. Bracket was then trimmed to the proper depth for installation inside the rear of the roadster threshold panel. Hacksaw cuts in the backside of the bracket were filled using an arc-welder, then ground flush. Threshold on the deck is angled forward degrees from level. I needed to find the correct angle to grind on the bracket so that it would be perpendicular. Threshold panel does not form a degree angle at the mounting surface so I hade to measure it with this angle-finder degrees and add the opposite angle degrees to come up with the angle to be ground on the bracket face.
This photo of the bracket shows the degree angle that I had to grind on the bracket to achieve a perpendicular mounting. I did it with a grinder and files; a milling machine would make the process easier and more precise. A slot had to be cut for the latch to protrude through. Marker was used to indicate the cut lines. Holes were drilled at the end of the cutout to serve as starting points for a saw or the cutoff tool that was used.
We used an air-powered cutoff tool to cut both sides of the slot. Jigsaw would also work if that is all you have. Cutting of hole was completed with a small hacksaw designed to hold a blade for this type application. File is used to finish shaping the opening. Better to make the opening a little undersized and fine-tune it later. Latch was test-fit in the opening to determine the amount that it was to protrude through the opening.
Measurements were marked on the rear mounting face and marked for location of the mounting holes. Latch is held in place by wide based bolts that spread the load on the surface of the sheetmetal similar to that of a flat washer. Small ridges in mating face act like lock washers, without digging into the sheetmetal.
This is the finished latch shown in the unlatched position. Latch shown in the latched position. Bottom of opening had to be positioned above the line of the threshold so that the bar mounted on the deck lid could be fully engaged.
View from below shows how the bracket bolted to the panel and allowed the actuating lever to have clearance for latching and unlatching. Cable or solenoid power will attach here. Striker bar half of the latch mechanism attaches to the underside of the deck lid.
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