Tamiya model magazine pdf

No engine is provided, but we can imagine that this option might materialise from the aftermarket sector. Into the hull are fitted detailed lower wall liners that support the crew seats and atop the track sponsons are supplied parts for the batteries, radio and other internal equipment. The upper hull walls are detailed on both faces inner and outer and on the inside surface, a few ejector-pin marks will need removal, but this is no big deal. Careful alignment here will be essential, so that the upper deck fits correctly.

The running is provided in the form of individuallymoulded swing arms and associated hardware, onto which fit the paired roadwheels. The tracks come in the form of links and lengths; multiple links moulded together for the upper and lower runs and lift-up sections, plus individual links to wrap around the drive sprockets and idlers.

Takom have appreciated that this can be a tricky stage of assembly and have very helpfully included a moulded plastic assembly jig that is used both for aligning the swing arms and building up the tracks into easier to fit segments. On our sample they can vary they are quite shallow with a wide circumference and should be easy to scrape away, filling any recessed areas with putty or Mr Surfacer. In summary, it is fantastic to have an injection-moulded kit of the FV to enjoy.

It full interior makes it all the more fun - bring on the Abbott and other variants! It was used for the first time in Germany in March and therefore too late to participate with any significance in the Second World War, so it was during the Korean War in the early s that it was used the most. Moreover, the two decal schemes provided in the kit are for vehicles gear engaged in this conflict. The box also contains eight very well animated crew figures, which complement the model perfectly.

The object of this article is not to describe the step-by-step assembly, which any moderately experienced modeller will be able to carry out without problems by following the very clear instructions. I will concentrate on the painting and weathering of the model plus the creation of the diorama, exploiting the potential offered by the eight figures and the accessories provided. The smallest details will remain clearly visible on the finished model.

The brass tubes provided serve to detail the two large reciprocators on each side of the tube. Some parts are secured with screws provided in the box The model has a very high level of detail. Assembly is facilitated by the intelligent engineering of the parts.

Even the hull, broken down into several elements, fits together perfectly. The breech block head can be presented closed or here, open for the diorama The sighting equipment is beautifully reproduced. The author drilled the ends of the glasses with a mini-cutter to increase realism View of the inside of the fighting compartment with the barrel base and peripheral details. The interior is full of detail and the author presented the folding seats in a raised position The anchor beam may remain movable but the author decided to fix it in the lowered position.

The nylon cord installed on the pulleys must be tight. For this, it was coated with cyano glue once it had been positioned, thus stiffened it will not move any more The folding platform is made up of several parts. The author decided to present it with its retractable section extended to its maximum deployment The retractable grid of the platform is impeccably reproduced by Tamiya The surface of the main platform is superb!

The small metal chains are positioned temporarily for the photo. They will not be permanently installed until after painting The gun-brace supporting the barrel in transit may remain mobile if desired. The two cupolas of the driving position will be completed with their clear plastic parts once painting is finished The tools are moulded without their straps which the author has depicted with thin electrical tape.

The details of the vinyl tracks are convincing. Various armoured panels were shaded by adding more and more XF-4 Yellow Green to the base colour After applying a layer of gloss varnish, the decals were positioned. A second coat of gloss varnish was then applied to protect them. Wear was greater on the floor of the combat station With the tip of a modelling knife, the author created some scratches by scoring the surface of the decals The tools were painted according to the instructions: XF Red Brown for wooden handles and XF Gunmetal for the metal parts Various scratches were also reproduced on the internal walls and the stowage chests A XF JGSDF Brown was applied to the undercarriage and the rubber parts were touched in by a brush using XF Rubber Black The whole model received a colour-wash made from a mixture of Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color Black and Brown.

Then, with a flat brush, the protruding parts were highlighted with XF Gunmetal, then X Chrome The accumulation of mud and dust is completed with Tamiya acrylic paint juices diluted with water XF and XF in particular. The figurines were painted largely by airbrush, the small details were then taken in by brush The chrome parts of the two reciprocators and the various slides of the barrel were painted in X Chrome The d insul adve creat The cylinder head was patinated with a few touches of X Chrome The rear platform was permanently glued in place and the chains installed definitively The f ideal Ready to go into action The contents of a tea bag were sprinkled here and there to give even more texture to the floor In addition to the moulded plastic shells of the M40 kit, Tamiya offers brass shells in the metal gun set Two conifers from the Faller range of products for model The shells are seen here painted and their decals railways decorate the background and give a little applied.

One member of the eight servants is responsible height to the display for preparing the shells. One of them was Alexander Vraciu who scored nineteen kills. As usual, the build starts with the cockpit. After painting the plastic parts interior green and black, the self-adhesive pre-coloured instrument panels are put in place. This results in a very attractive and busy looking cockpit without having to paint all the microscopic dials and switches.

Also included are pre-coloured seat belts and they look very realistic. The engine is built up of five plastic parts which, after painting aluminium and a given a dark colour-wash, looks pretty good. With the addition of the photo-etch ignition wires it looks even better. Unfortunately most of the engine will be hidden once installed in the cowling.

The kit is quite basic but the panel lines are sharp and deep enough to hold a wash. The only drawback being the fact that they can only be installed without an angle straight from the kit; some cutting and modifying has to be done if you want to change that. The landing gear, and especially the resin wheels, are very nice. After painting white and adding a wash, all the details pop out. The fit of the parts is nothing less of excellent and hardly any filler was needed.

I hardly ever use canopy masks because they seldom fit. The ones include from Eduard fitted like a glove. It was quite a relief! A coat of Alclad black primer with micro-filler was airbrushed over the completed airframe.

The paint used was Gunze Aqueous of which the colour numbers are given in the instructions: H54 for the top surfaces, H56 for the sides and H for the underside. To give the colours a less solid look I airbrushed the colours in thin layers, building up their intensity randomly on the surface.

With a few drops of white, the paint was made a few shades lighter to make even more variations in the paint, giving it a bit of a used look. When the paint was dry a coat of Alclad Aqua gloss was sprayed on to make a smooth surface on which to apply the decals.

I ended up cutting the decals with a sharp blade and one single! This worked but is quite risky to do. Finally a dark colour-wash on the top side and a grey wash on the underside was brushed on, followed by an Alclad semi matt coat. Overall, this kit builds into a very nice representation of this Navy WW2 workhorse and is easy enough to build for beginners in the hobby. Highly recommended. Availability; Eduard models and accessories are widely available from good model shops and online.

Unit , Honeysome Ind Est. PE16 6TG www. The links are moulded in strong ABS plastic which cements and paints like regular polystyrene but is significantly stronger. Assembly jigs are supplied on the moulded sprues and steel tubing rollers will be found in the pack for increased realism. The links will need trimming, cleaning up and painting, but will look completely convincing in place.

Full instructions are included. Spring-loaded and very high quality production. For the enhanced detailing of and car models and and motorcycle models, Tamiya have released four gauges of black vinyl cabling, all flexible but rigid enough to hold their position well, when fitted in place.

High quality materials are used and the cable can also find uses in armour and aircraft models of larger scales. The instructions are somewhat minimalistic, but photo-references from the internet plus common sense should allow the modeller to apply them accurately. Top quality resin castings as always. They are animated in attacking poses and are full of life, perfect for a dynamic diorama or vignette. Excellent moulding quality and good anatomy are plus points.

The set for Vietnam War era US GIs comprises six acrylic colours — mostly greens of course — come in 17ml plastic bottles. The paints are formulated for hand-painting but if thinned, could be airbrushed for airbrushing larger areas.

The camouflage painting guide on the back of the pack is particularly useful. The threecolour tones are included, plus white, panzer grey and light yellow. They are well moulded and finely detailed but are in rather static poses, which slightly limits their appeal for dioramas. A sprue of infantry weapons is included, along with items of discarded uniform — Verlinden Productions style — moulded in flexible DS material.

Other options that do not apply to this version are also on the sprues. These include an alternative two-bladed propeller, a four-bladed propeller, a Hispano-Suiza engine and the early-style radiator. The lower and upper wings are both fullspan, and all control surfaces are separate. These is a single pair of interplane and cabane struts on each side, so this should not be too much of a chore.

Deep locating holes and pins are present too. BG Appealing markings-scheme, attractive jet subject High level of detail, outstanding surface features including fabric texture, stringers, rib tapes and raised rivets where appropriate, includes colour photo-etched parts Some flash creeping in on some parts Rigging! The original bike was designed California customiser Tom Daniel and Monogram now incorporated into Revell created this largescale kit back in Most of the engine parts are chromed, as are the exhausts, wheels and other parts.

The huge front forks are square in section and the double seat is fabulous, with a padded pattern moulded in. The tyres are moulded in kit plastic and thus need a little assembly and painting; no problem. And a greatlooking one too. Here, we are examining the F. Naturally, the cockpit is fully depicted and comes complete with inner-fuselage structural framework, characteristic open floor, pilots seat with a wovenwicker effect pattern, instrument panel with decals for the dial faces and fuel tank.

We will bring you a full-build article on this stunning kit as soon as we can! MN www. Just set aside plenty of time to build her up, and enjoy!

This kit originally came out from Revell in as the Kenworth Aerodyne with an aerodynamic fairing on top of its cab roof and it has undergone a few transformations since, but the kit has remained fundamentally the same.

Some are periodical such as Tamiya News and Tamiya Model Magazine International, and allow modelers to stay informed about Tamiya's new releases and to learn tips and tricks to make their models even more realistic.

For prices and availability, contact one of our local agents. Tamiya's Local Agent List. Hey folks, believe it or not, that was forty years ago. Whilst the years have rolled by, the fascination with the original film trilogy has never left me.

How ironic that in this anniversary year that I decide to tackle one of my most ambitious projects yet, the DeAgostini Millennium Falcon kit. This kit was collected as a weekly magazine part-work over the last 2yrs, although it can be bought now as a single kit. The designers of this kit had access to the movie prop from The Empire Strikes Back, and this model was based on this.

Whilst this beast is scale, it is in fact to the ESB movie prop! So, time to see if we can make Han Solo and Chewy proud of this effort. Here is one of the four boxes of parts! Getting ready to assemble the lower hull. This test section belongs to the upper hull DeAgostini made a number of improvements during the course of issuing the magazine. Here you can see the new cockpit test-fitted to the corridor tube. Subsequent issue s will see the model being finalised, painted and weathered.

For now, the process of emptying the many zinc-alloy metal frames from their protective sleeves, had begun. Each frame part is superbly made, with sharply-defined edges and also numbered with an identifier for either top or bottom frame i. TF01 or BF01 etc. The screw holes in these have also been tapped.

The first forty magazine issues have the parts for the lower hull and the following forty approximately, concern the upper hull. Other detail parts supplied within these issues are now carefully stored away until later in the build. The final magazine issues deal with construction of the mandibles, amongst other things. Construction of the lower hull is a relatively straightforward affair, with the first sections of the radial frames being connected to each other directly, with the use of double and quad connecting plates, dependent on location.

It was decided during design to add a number of radial stiffening strips to the hull, running from the centre to the outer edge. These are supplied in two parts each, with a connection block holding them together with four screws.

The frames themselves are bolted together with hundreds of small screws. After two or three radial sections are bolted together, I opted to fit the central turret ring, to add some rigidity to the frames.

All subsequent frames are now fitted to the hull, with the exception of the hull frame that contains the ramp. This comes in the shape of a self-adhesive LED strip with wire leads and electrical connector. The tape backing is removed from the LED strip and this is then threaded through the framework and attached in the direction shown. A sprue is included which contains the moulded hydraulic legs and a series of metal parts are included for the ram pistons and hinge.

With the styrene parts U A series of connection plates and screws are used to fasten the frames. You can also see the metal parts are numbered for clarity A section of the upper hull plating is test-fitted to the frame. Again, everything is a perfect fit The Falcon has a ramp which works via remote control. This is the section of framework onto which the various electronic parts will fit There is some play in the position of the frames before you tighten the screws fully.

Thread-lock is also used on the hinge screws, where the brackets will rotate independently of them. Masking this was fun, but the effort was worth the final result. The ramp was now fitted via hinge to the hull plating and the whole lot fitted to the metal framework.

The actuator motor was then secured into place with four screws, and the arm connected to the ramp using a supplied metal pin. I will test the electronics at a later stage. Ramp section now completed, the whole unit was offered up to the lower hull and then secured with screws, completing the lower hull circular frame.

Now it was the turn of the myriad of hull plates to be fitted. There are many hull plates to add to the model at this stage, and they have to be applied in a specific order due to overlap etc. Doing it in the wrong order will increase your blood pressure. Tolerances are very tight here, with any small deviation in the internal framing causing plates not to sit flush to each other. This is no real issue, as this problem can easily be solved by slackening the framing parts ever so slightly.

The adjustment is barely noticeable, but it does work. Once the panels are secured with a truck-load of self-tapping screws, the frames within can soon be tightened again. Now, with a few hours to spare, the frame screws are laboriously removed a few at a time and thread-lock added to the connection.

Consider this as a tedious insurance policy against your Falcon becoming a rattling hulk of U All electronics are supplied ready for installation. This is the ramp light that will operate when the ramp is lowered The LED strip is self-adhesive and simply sticks to the zinc framework.

If in doubt, you can degrease the metal first Familiar territory here as we prepare the plastic parts for assembly. These are related to the ramp area Metal hinges are used here, and the motor is geared to control speed. For more information on products www. All screws are now fully secured and that part can thankfully be forgotten. There are a number of large superstructures that will be screwed to the lower hull, but those will be tackled very shortly as I need to look at the installation of the extra aftermarket lighting that I will add here, necessitating the drilling of holes in this precious work.

For now though, work proceeds with the upper hull. This is constructed in the same way as the lower hull except that there are large cut out features within the frames, used for removable access panels to the corridor, battery compartment and hold etc.

I found I needed to be far more careful with the upper hull, as until the last moments of assembly, it seemed a little more fragile than the lower hull. As a note here, I did find a very small number of the larger radius frames to be a little flat in curvature, and not matching the adjacent frames.

To reapply the curvature to these parts, I gently manipulated the parts in between my fingers and kept checking things against the model. These slight errors are easily fixed. One addition to the upper hull is the installation of the battery box. This is first fitted to its securing clip by means of a section of double-sided tape that is included in the kit, and the box is then fitted to a hidden section of hull plating via two nuts and bolts.

Note the pre-weathering of the hull plates. This model will have a full paint job as befits a model of this standing. I will be painting it. The ramp is first masked and then Gunze RLM66 is airbrushed over it With the ramp and external plastic parts installed, this now completes this assembly Without a doubt, this is an imposing model. This is the lower hull frame, minus the ramp assembly section. Photographing this will be a challenge The fun now begins as the external hull receives its plastic plating.

All parts are secured with self-tapping screws and they must be fitted in sequence so as to prevent fit problems Here is the lower hull, minus the superstructures that will be added around the time I install the additional lighting sets The electronics of course need power.

Here is the internal battery pack. An adapter can also be used to power this model The whole rear engine deck of this model is designed to be removable so as to access electronics etc. Notice two forward tank hulls here? These are based around a sparsely detailed well for which there a detail sprue is included. I considered it safe to build these in their entirety and then paint them along with the rest of the model.

You may notice parts here associated with other model kits More sprue parts for the lower hull central mandible.

Modellers who made film props used to have a stash of kits from which they would use random details and apply them to the hulls of sci-fi models. A number of these sprue parts are saved for hull detailing later on. A quick tip here for you regarding these plant-on items, whether on the hull or in the recessed bays: do NOT remove the moulding seams! I know this There are a total of eight of these recessed bays to be fitted to the mandibles, and all of them are different There are two underside recessed equipment bays, packed with detail goes against the very grain of what we do as modellers, but this model is supposed to represent the movie prop, and when that was built, these details had visible ejector pin marks and seams.

Now, I do want to tie this in with improving things in some areas, as we will see later when we tackle the U With the main frames fitted to the external plating, the zinc alloy side frames are installed, again using thread-lock for all screws modelsforsale. Books and Accessories. Will collect on larger quantities.

Please see our website for more details or please call us. This part is large and should give you a sense of scale V exterior of the Falcon. The mandibles themselves are constructed in the same way as the main hull, with upper and lower metal frames that are plated with external styrene cladding.

A small number of screws are left out at this stage, later to be used for securing the recessed equipment bays. There are two each of these on both the upper and lower faces of both mandibles. The mostly complete mandible can now have its stock electronics fitted. A wiring loom is included to supply light to the forward face The rectenna is adjustable using these pivot mounts. Care is needed here so as not to accidentally glue the free-moving parts Detail in these is totally different, and is designed to accommodate the numerous lengths of plumbing that run around the outside of each mandible.

These pipes will be fitted in the latter stages of assembly, before paint hits the external hull. In typical modeller fashion, this is where I considered painting these recessed bays, but I really had to tear myself away from my known As a taster for Part 2, this is hold area of the Falcon, in some need of aftermarket. Watch how I tackle this next time 58 These are the plating parts for the upper hull and the superstructures for the lower hull.

You will also notice the upper turret part So that the interior can be displayed, a section of the upper hull needs to be removable. This completed area is fitted via magnets methodology. All of these bays, whether on the hull or mandibles, can now be fitted to the model permanently using the long self-tapping screws provided with the kit.

I will paint these in the final stages, along with the hull exterior and weathering. These are now fitted with the countersunk screws and a touch of thread lock glue.

The mandibles also have lighting fitted within them, supplied by DeAgostini. Each LED is screwed to the inside of the forward mandible plate, and this then fitted to the front side. The LEDs will be plugged into the circuit once the model has its main assembly.

These just pop into place using locating pins and the frame holes. You can of course add a little glue. Extra sprue parts are added to the exterior, simulating the detail you see in the movies. For now, I need to plan this, make a few purchases and get right back to you for the next instalment. My thanks again to Mark Adams for the inspiration and the goodies he sent me for this project, more of which you will see in Part Two of this build.

Within the pages including covers we can follow various model subjects as they are painted and treated with myriad ageing treatments, imbuing the kit parts with realism and dramatic visual impact. MN DH. For further information; www.

VI, we have the best possible kit to get our teeth into. Within its eighty-four soft-covered pages we are treated to page after page of wartime photos of varying versions in action, in the ETO and PTO, airframes under construction, in flight shots, undergoing maintenance and being re-armed. A useful and well-priced introduction to the famous wooden wonder.

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Photo-Etch Placer Our photo-etch placer is a re-usable wax based positioning stick that will help you to hold and place even the smallest piece of photo-etch or styrene. Bestsellers Editors' Picks All Ebooks. Explore Audiobooks. Bestsellers Editors' Picks All audiobooks. Explore Magazines. Editors' Picks All magazines. Explore Podcasts All podcasts. Difficulty Beginner Intermediate Advanced. Explore Documents. Tamiya Model Magazine International Uploaded by Aydin Sahin. Did you find this document useful?

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