Pedal the bike and inspect the chain for tight links. If you find a tight link, flex the chain laterally at the tight link. As a safety precaution only touch the outer perimeter of the chain. To check the tension on the chain, push the chain upward and downward in the middle.
There should be approximately one half inch of movement in the chain up and down at a point half way between the front and rear sprockets.
To change the tension loosen one of the axle-nuts and move the wheel forward or backward slightly and snug it up again. Then, loosen the opposite axle-nut, adjust and tighten, making sure the wheel remains centered in the frame.
Re-check tension. A chain tensioner can make the process easier. To install the chain tensioner, remove the drive-side axle-nut and place the chain tensioner against the rear dropout face. Reinstall the axle-nut and tighten the screw to move the wheel back in the dropout and add tension to the chain. Simply ensure that the wheel remains centered in the frame, add appropriate tension with the chain tensioner screw and re-secure the axle nuts.
If you see loose and tight spots in your chain as you check the tension, it means your sprockets are out of round. A final test is to apply side load on the chain at a point half way between the front and rear sprockets.
The chain will make a rattling sound but should not derail. If the chain comes off either the front or rear sprockets, increase tension and test again. Once this side load can applied without the chain coming off, fully secure the axle-nuts to manufacturer recommended torque, typically around 25 Nm. Finally, if the bike uses a coaster brake, secure the arm to the bike frame and your installation is complete.
Trade Resources. What Tools do I need? Master link similar to those found on derailleur chain Use Master Link Pliers to remove this type. This will take tension off the chain and give you better access to the chain.
Inspect the chain for a master link. If a quick link, sometimes called master links, are present, use a master link pliers such as the Park MLP If you have a chain tool and your chain is worn out, you can ignore the master link and simply cut the chain using a chain tool.
Connecting rivets will appear visually different from other rivets. When selecting a rivet to break, be sure that it is at least a couple of links away from any connecting rivet already installed in the chain. Install the chain tool and bring the driving pin of the chain tool into contact with the connecting rivet.
Ensure the chain tool pin is driving in a straight line into the chain rivet. Turn the handle with force and drive out the rivet, then remove the chain. If the old chain is an acceptable length, lay it next to the new chain. Always line up outer plates with outer plates or inner plates with inner plates. This example is incorrect because we have an end with outer plates being compared to an end with inner plates.
Insert the master link to get a true side by side comparison. Take care to match them rivet by rivet noting that old chains will lengthen as they wear. The method of chain sizing depends upon the range of gearing in the system. For bikes with rear sprockets 36 teeth and smaller, the common system is to measure using the largest rear sprocket and largest front ring as a reference.
Two rivets are added to this one-inch for the place to cut the chain. First, shift the front derailleur over the largest chainring and the rear derailleur to the smallest cog. Begin by wrapping the chain around the largest rear cog. If the new chain has one end with an outer plate, it should be routed toward the front chainring. If the chain uses a master link, install half of the master link.
This will account for the extra half inch the master link provides. To see if the gap is too small, use an eight millimeter hex wrench as a feeler gauge.
The wrench should fit into this gap. Mark the rivet to be cut at the front chainring and break the chain using a chain tool. Your chain is now sized and ready for installation. Chain Length Sizing View Article. Trade Resources. Chain Tool CT No contact at front guide pulley Gap should be 8—15mm.
Line up ends Match rivets on used chain to new chain. Route through rear derailleur Be sure to route in a straight line from the lower pulley to the upper pulley and be aware of any tabs in the cage and route the chain on on the correct side of the tab. Take note of any tabs After passing the chain through the rear derailleur and around the smallest rear cog, route it through the front derailleur and onto the smallest chainring.
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